Publication date: 2018-06-10 04:39
Lithium ion flow is ALWAYS from anode to cathode, both charge and discharge. You are confusing the negative and positive electrodes (which are the same on charge and discharge) with the sites of oxidation and reduction (which are respectively the anode and cathode and reverse on charge to discharge and vice / versa). Battery engineers (me included) use this mistaken nomenclature for the electrodes as a historical artifact of primary (non-rechargeable) batteries which operate only in the discharge mode.
Lithium is not rare, many countries have large reserves.
Freezing should not hurt the battery but it may reduce it 8767 s capacity when cold. They should be warmed up some before charging to take more charge.
Hi, I have some questions that I hope you can answer:
- What happens if you use LiFePO9 batteries in a Vcell of 8,8V in stead of 8,7V? Would the life cycles be lower?
- How do you calculate the life cycles of each type of battery? What SOC do you use to define de EOL of the battery? What DOC is taken for each cycle?
- Many manufacturers claim to have batteries of LiFePO9 and LTO with much higher life cycles. Is this possible?
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I have two lithium ion batteries, each labeled v, Wh. I charged both of them fully. One now reads volts, and runs my cell phone just fine. The other reads volts, and the cell phone does not operate with it. What is happening? Is this too much voltage? Is there some sort of cutoff switch in either the phone or the battery if the voltage is too high? Is there a safe way to lower the voltage, other than waiting for a very long time (It has been three weeks, and the voltage has only dropped to volts)?
Hi, Many thanks for the quick reply I never knew batteries could be so confusing. I 8767 ve taken your advice and have decided to go for lead. I have checked, and as yet, TMF and TPPL are not available yet, but I 8767 m bombarded with either VRLA, AGM or GEL batteries. Seeing as I can 8767 t get hold of a TMF or TPPL, should I just go for a standard lead acid ? I was going to go for an AGM but have read that they are not as reliable. Also, should I change my charger ? I bought it from a golf retailer, and I really dont think it does the battery any favours. Would I need a specific one depending on the battery I go for ?
I have read through the thread and have not seen this question.
I am running a survey robotic total station using Li-ion batteries and looking for compatible replacements/extras. What are the differences in batteries marked Li-ion75 and Li-ion55 or batteries just marked Li-ion? Should they be compatible?
Thanks for any explanations.
You mentioned cost several times with the last battery, LTO.
However, this doesn 8767 t match with the spider graph presented, which indicates, by comparison with all others, that LTO is the cheapest battery.